So that’s the glue? That’s a big money maker there wherever they’re getting this from. Where China? Where are they getting this? I don’t know. Well, they probably did the manufacturing in China, not that Chinese is bad because Hong Kong had to compete against Savile Row for over a hundred and some years. So, it’s not necessarily bad, it’s just what process they’re using. Yeah, that’s all I mean, this here off the rack should be no more than $300. Made-to-measure should never have crossed the $500 line. There’s a lot of talk today out there about custom apparel, custom suits, pants, jackets. Pretty much about four different categories of tailored garments. One is customized, your off-the-rack garment that you can buy in any department store, then it’s finely tailored to customize to you, to give you a better look and feel. Then the number two area is you can have a made-to-measure suit. Made-to-measure suit means that it’s just pre-altered from an off-the-rack pattern, closer to your size. This is something that’s done a lot, but called custom, it’s not, it’s not bad, but it’s made-to-measure. Made-to-Measure is a little more advanced because it’s not completely predetermined, but the measurements are still made-to-measure in order to fit you. Last, but not least, is bespoke. Bespoke means that it’s spoken for you in the Old English terminology. That meant either a tailor would cut a paper pattern for you, and then they would partially assembly on you. It’s kind of what you’ve seen in TV and movies. Bespoke today uses cam technology where we put all the measurements together in a computer to see if they all fit, and then its laser cut into a pattern, cut and dictated by the computer in order to get that three-dimensional fit you. We us measuring devices, like this, that measure how far your neck comes out from your back, devices to measure the slope of your shoulders, from your neck to the point of your shoulders. These precise measurements allow everything to easily drape over your body for the maximum amount of comfort possible. Bespoke is unique only to you. These tools are all used for everything including the measurement for the tilt of your trousers. The little bubble on this measuring tool helps us more perfectly measure for the most comfortable fit in the seat and in the rise of your trouser. This is what separates the bespoke from custom or made-to-measure. We are all three dimensional and bespoke takes that into account. Made-to-measure is all just about the waist size, how tall you are, and how wide your shoulders are. That’s all the more that can be done, and cannot take the shape of your shoulders, the shape of your back, or any other feature that needs to be fitted so that it gives you the perfect fit that only Bespoke has to offer.

The internal construction of a garment whether it be the jacket or the trouser is also extremely important. Bespoke, custom, or made-to-measure suits are all of the caliber of garments that can be canvas, half Canvas or fused. There are two grades of fusing, hard and an Italian soft fused which gives you a better feel and forms the garment. For example, the face of the jacket is the chest plate that’s formed to a mannequin which may or may not be your individual, particular shape, and over time gets hard and can become quite uncomfortable. It’s also built-in obsolescence because with dry cleaning glue breaks down and then you get bubbles and puckers that we can’t get out. Half canvas uses the same type of construction, one is canvas from the top all the way to the bottom of your jacket and half canvas cuts off right about at your natural waistline. The difference between the two are relatively minor because most of the important construction is in the chest piece, the shoulder and in the waistband of the garment. The only reason you’d want a full canvas garment is because you’re going with a very light fabric that may not have the body or substance that would be a fabric like super 180s cloth, linen, or possibly a cotton, just to give it the support and structure so that it breaks over your body in a perfect fit that you would expect from a higher quality garment.