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Custom vs Custom-Made
Custom Menswear and Trends From Savillian and beyond
Made to Measure vs. Bespoke vs. Custom Made
Often times, words are misused to describe custom made suits. It never fails to make me flinch. Here is rundown of often misused terms:
It means a suit that has “been spoken for”. Bespoke is when one tailor creates a suit from scratch for one person. This usually takes multiple fittings as the pattern is drafted directly on the person. This art arises from Savile Row (UK) and is the most traditional way a suit is made.
Made to Measure
This is a completely different process than bespoke as it does not involve one on one tailors fitting you personally. Made to measure is based on pre-set patterns. The pre-set pattern is scaled up or down based on your measurements. This process is machine operated so mass orders are taken.
Main differences between each method:
• full bespoke starts at $2000, made to measure usually starts at $800
• nothing will fit you better than bespoke – everything is accounted for, made to measure is based on pre-set patterns and the cutting is automated, so it may still fit like an off-the-rack suit
• bespoke is mostly hand sewn using high quality construction, made to measure is a machine made garment
Nowadays there is much overlap as technology, and globalization have evened the playing field so obtaining suits that are bespoke quality at a lower price is possible. Much to the dismay of Savile Row tailors who have lost much business to this new way of suiting.
Custom Made is a very forgiving term that can be used to describe anything that has been tweaked to fit you based on your measurements and style options. When this term is used, it can mean a variety of things or a combination of methods.
Suits come in many different qualities and price ranges, yet many men believe a suit is a suit. That couldn’t be further from the truth, and it’s like saying a car is a car, no matter whether it is a Tata from India or a Bugatti.
• You can find it at Jos. A. Bank, H&M, Men’s Wearhouse, they’re all similar. Basically, it is a completely machine-made suit that is sewn together in 2-3 hours max, and there is next to no handwork whatsoever. When it comes to suits, hand sewing is better because it is more flexible and it adapts to your body more easily and so especially for a jacket, you always want more handwork.
• Made of very cheap fabric and cheap lining. The fabric of a $100 suit is usually stretched with polyester, with nylon, or other artificial fibers. Also, the raw materials may be cotton or wool that go into that fabric are of the lowest quality possible. The $100 suit may not look that different when you see pictures online, but as soon as you touch it, you can immediately tell the difference between a $100 suit and a $1000 suit. It simply is stiffer, less comfortable, and you’re more prone to sweating in it.
Glued interlining. So, what exactly is interlining and why do you use it? When you start out with fabric, you have a two-dimensional surface, in order to keep it in a three-dimensional shape, you need a second layer, and the layer needs to be attached in a certain shape, so it stays like this, think about this of your chest, and this being the fabric, and this the interlining, once they’re detached, they stay in shape. For the $100 suit, this interlining is of very low quality and is glued to the fabric, that works in the beginning, but it also acts as an insulator, so you’re much more likely to overheat and sweat. Over time and maybe if you walk through the rain, this interlining will come lose, and you will see bubbles forming on your lapels all over your jacket, that looks cheap and sloppy, and it’s the hallmark of a $100 suit.
The single button fastening of the single-breasted dinner jacket is equally about decorativeness as it is about simplicity. It’s about showing off the dress shirt’s decorative front, and compared to the tradition button-three jacket, the dinner jacket doesn’t need to be buttoned for warmth or to keep out the wind outdoors. It only has one button because additional buttons remind us of the practical origins of jackets with more buttons (even if our suits today are designed for only fastening one button).
More complex and more decorative is the link-button fastening. This gives the jacket a symmetrical front by showing one button on either side of the fastening at the waist thanks to two buttons connected with a long shank.
Double-breasted dinner jackets need at least two buttons on the front for visual symmetry, and they often need more buttons for improved visual balance, depending on the height of the fastening button.
The notched lapel is sometimes considered inappropriate for black tie because it’s not formal enough or special enough. Many people prefer peaked lapels or a shawl collar. Throughout the long history of the dinner jacket, notched lapels have periodically been fashionable for dinner jackets. The notched lapel can be said to be inappropriate for a dinner jacket because it’s too ordinary. The notched lapel, when classically proportioned, can be folded up and fastened, so it has that utilitarian origin and thus is less decorative than peaked lapels or the shawl collar.
However, the shawl collar could even be considered less formal than the suit’s standard notched lapels. It’s the most relaxed collar, coming from garments worn inside the house like the smoking jacket and dressing gown. Yet the shawl collar is more decorative than notched lapels.
Ultimate Guide To Dress Shirts | Men’s Dress Shirt Introduction
How much do you know about men’s dress shirts?
We all know that shirts should properly fit the body in order for us to look great in it.
But what are the parts of a dress shirt and why do we have to learn about it?
This article touches on its origins and parts to include the collar, cuffs, front style, back style, buttons, and pockets.
It also covers fabrics and colors with links to other useful articles.
Dress Shirt Introduction
The men’s dress shirt is a button-up shirt with a collar and long sleeves. It is cut differently than the sport shirt, which is made to be worn open-necked and looks awkward with a tie.
The dress shirt is designed to carry a jacket and tie, but can be worn without one or the other or with neither. Various shirts with different sorts of collars and cuffs are appropriate for different ranges of attire, and many can run the gamut of formality.
Dress Shirt Fit
Most men wear dress shirts that do not fit them properly. By wearing a shirt that fits you properlyin the neck, sleeves, chest, and stomach you will not only stand out but you will improve your appearance dramatically.
A Precursor –
The fact that most men wear shirts that are too large has to do with the basic problem with off-the-rack clothing; you only have so many choices.
With every man having a different physical profile, it’s impossible for large scale shirt manufactures to build a garments that fit everyone; they try to get around this problem by building shirts for the mythical average men.
Perhaps you’ve met them: Small, Medium, and Large. The result is that you end up finding a shirt with the right sleeve length, but the shoulders, neck, and chest are too large.
When you find something that fits in the chest, you find that you need another inch in the sleeves. And so you make do: don’t. I highly recommend a man consider custom shirts if he wants a proper fit.
Unless you are very lucky or find a brand that used your profile as one of its mythical men, your time is better spent focusing on what fabrics or styles to choose. There are many companies out there that can build a much better shirt for the same price you’ll pay for a name brand off the rack one.
Whatever it is worn with, a shirt should fit snugly without restricting movement. Just as the shirt protects the jacket’s lining from absorbing too much grease and sweat from the skin beneath, an undershirt can take the brunt of perspiration to keep a dress shirt looking fresh all day and extend its life.
If the shirt is to be worn open-necked, a crew-neck t-shirt will peek out below the throat, an adolescent look most men do well to avoid. V-neck tees are much safer. Some men prefer to feel the dress shirt’s finer fabric against their skin, and forgo an undershirt altogether.
Dress Shirt Fabric
A shirt’s color is the first thing we notice. It can be determined a hundred feet away and may send a message that the man wearing it is outgoing or that he knows how to fit in. Neither message is better than the other, but a man who understands the role of color and its effect has control over what is being said.
White is the most common shirt color, and for good reason. Historically, it has dominated the scene, and initially was the only choice for a gentleman. The lack of color and stains on a man’s collar and cuffs signified he was above working with his hands and sweating to earn a living.
It wasn’t until the English began to introduce colors from their weekends and country wear that colors and patterns became fashionable. Still, white holds it’s place as the most formal color; a man can safely assume a white shirt will never be out of place.
Blue came on to the shirt scene a bit later, but it’s dominance of second has more to do with it’s looks than heritage. Blue and colors with similar hues are especially flattering to most male complexions; thus the popularity of blue exploded in the United States as more and more off-the-rack manufactures looked for colors and patterns that would sell.
Today the color firmly holds a place as the second most popular color.
Pink, gold, lavender…..the popularity contest continues. These other colors make great accents, but can stand as solids themselves on the right man. And that’s a point that is often overlooked; every man has a unique look based off his complexion, hair color, eye color, and their amount of contrast. Using these cues, a man is better served to find the color and combinations that compliment his unique style than to chase the popular colors of the season. There is no use wondering how to wear a black dress shirt if the color does not work for you.
Solid -The simplest pattern is none at all. But solid shirts are anything but simple, especially if you play with the weave. A solid white twill fabric has a very different look and feel from a solid white poplin.
In addition, by choice to go solid allows a man the option to highlight other aspects of the shirt such as a unique collar style or to focus the attention of what really matters, his face.
Stripe – Less formal that a solid, the striped shirt is a man’s opportunity to add some pizazz to his outfit. Most men can’t go wrong with a classic white on blue, but those who know how to dress seek to add certain accent colors such as red or pink to liven up the hues in the face.
Many people are confused about wearing striped shirts with striped ties (or pin-striped suits for that matter). The rule here is that the distance between the stripes should be different; otherwise you have the optical illusion of movement.
Check- the most casual pattern, it is the busiest pattern and the one least seen on ready made shirts. Historically, the purpose of the check was to identify and signify a wearer’s background.
Today, most men are intimidated to wear such a pattern with a suit as that it appears overpowering; it needn’t be, just remember not to mix like patterns; a checked shirt with a solid suit and striped tie is a great combination. Just don’t wear it to meet the Queen of England.
Cotton vs Blends
The battle has been raging for sometime: on one side you have those who say that cotton is king, and you should never compromise. Others argue that there is a time and place for blends, and that many of the properties man made fibers bestow upon a blended shirt are well worth the compromise. I personally believe it depends on your needs and wants.
If you work in an air conditioned building, are price sensitive, and new to quality shirting then blends are a viable option. If you are a traveler, have plenty of money, and spend time in hot weather then cotton is perhaps a better choice. For more information on shirt fabrics in general, click here.
Dress Shirt Style
Men’s dress shirt collars come in all different colors, sizes, and styles (the figure to the left displays the six common areas where tailors adjust the size and length). The purpose of a shirt collar is to frame the face; it’s goal is to draw an observers eyes to yours so that you can get your message across.
Regardless of the type of jacket or tie, ones shirt collar is always visible, and plays a major role in determining how the wearer’s face will appear to observers. Choosing the right shirt collar will ensure you enhance your facial strengths while downplaying any irregularities.
Turndown collars are the staple found on gentleman’s shirts, and offer the most opportunity for individual taste. These collars, as the name suggests, are turned down, forming a sort of triangle whose angles vary with the particular look one is aiming for. Although there are countless variations, the turndown collar comes in two main categories: the point and the spread (or cutaway).
The point collar is the most common collar style, where the collar is cut so that the “points” are reasonably close together, sometimes to the extent that they almost hide the top portion of a tie.
Longer, more closely set points tend to draw the eye down towards the tie and away from the face, while a more moderate cut frames the tie and completes the arrow effect pointing at the face. The second popular style is the cutaway, or spread collar. These collars have the points “cut away” or spread – thus the name – revealing more of the upper shirt area and leaving additional room for larger knots such as the Windsor.
Like the point, spread collars come in a variety of widths, with more moderate ones resembling slightly flared point collars, while more extreme versions can be nearly horizontal.
The shirt cuffs are a small but very important part of a gentleman’s ensemble; besides the collar, they are one of the only visible parts of a shirt when a jacket is worn. Shirt cuffs should extend one half to one full inch past the jacket sleeves; properly worn they provide a polished look to ones ensemble.
Button cuffs are single cuffs which wrap around the arm and are buttoned into place. These are the cuffs most commonly found on ready made shirts. Button cuffs may have a single button or may be adjustable, with two buttons side-by-side.
Some have two buttonholes and two vertical buttons, a more formal option often called the barrel cuff. Button cuffs may also have a small button on the sleeve, between the cuff and the end of the cuff opening, intended to prevent the area from opening and exposing the gentleman’s wrist.
French cuffs are the most formal option, yet are perfectly appropriate for daily wear in many industries such as finance. The French cuff is a double cuff, folded back and fastened with cufflinks to create a distinctive and distinguished appearance.
Cufflinks must always be worn – though there are more subtle options available, such as fabric knots – so the gentleman must be prepared to keep a reasonable selection on hand. For more information on the well-dressed man and jewelry, consider this article.
The front style is determined by your choice of placket, which is the fabric edge of the left front panel with the buttonholes on it. The standard placket is a strip of fabric raised off the men’s dress shirt front with stitches down each side; this is what most casual shirts and many dress shirts have standard.
In the more modern plain (French) placket, the edge of the shirt front is folded over to create a creased edge and held together by the buttonholes.
This cleaner, plain front gives shirts a simple look. As that simplicity tends towards formality, this front style is considered dressier than the standard placket. Another but rarely seen front style is the covered placket. Here the fold is designed to cover the shirts buttons entirely. Rarely seen on off the rack shirts, this front style is geared towards dandies and should not be worn by those looking to blend in.
Dress Shirt Buttons
A shirt’s buttons are perhaps its most underrated detail. Most men don’t give buttons a second thought outside of their functionality; if they work and don’t draw attention to themselves, then that’s good enough.
But take a close look at them, and you may be lucky enough to find a world of intricate design – two holes, four holes, engravings, and a variety of materials used to craft these little wonders.
Most buttons today are made of plastic; a suitable material for the job, as that it is inexpensive and fairly strong.
If a quality resin is used, the plastic buttons will do an excellent job of holding up despite hundreds of rough washings. If a low-quality resin is the base of your buttons you will find cracking and they may fail within a year.
An eloquent alternative to plastic is Mother of Pearl. These buttons are made from shell, are so hard that they can break needles, and were once the standard button used on clothing.
Unfortunately, the double blow of cheap plastic and modern harsh detergents (causes gradual disintegration) slowed demand to a trickle, all but wiping out the industry.
Today, you only find them on the highest quality shirts; a small detail, but as Tom Wolfe said in The Secret Vice, “All of these marginal differences are like that. They’re so small, they’re practically invisible. All right! That’s what’s so maniacal about it”.
Most shirts have a single pocket on the left breast; the vast majority of men never use this pocket – so why is it there? It does give the appearance of depth, and with a wide variety of styles available it is a detail many men like on their shirts, but the fact of the matter is that most men would actually do better to have no pocket at all.
A simple clean look, which by default increases the formality of the shirt (although this is easily offset by a casual fabric) while setting it apart from the crowd.
As mentioned above, there are many styles for shirt pockets, and on some very casual ones (especially those with a western theme) you do see a double pocket. The difference usually lie in the overall shape and whether or not it has a flap.
Shapes range from the jagged diamond cut (on the left) to the common square cut, to the uncommon, rounded edge cut (seen to our right). Adding a flap to any pocket is possible, but the wearer should realize this makes the shirt very informal and not suitable for wear with a suit.
There are three common dress shirt back types, the first two being defined by the type and positioning of their pleat while the last one being defined by its absence of one. Perhaps the most common shirt back style is the single large double pleat found on the back center of most off the rack men’s dress shirts.
The design and purpose of this large pleat is simple; to help the shirt conform to as many men’s figures as possible. Despite it’s large size and dubious duty, it is a trait loved by many shirt enthusiasts and is often asked for even on custom made shirts (where the need for pleats is superfluous).
A less common pleat that serves the same purpose, albeit more effectively but is more expensive to manufacture, is the double pleat. Located on the shoulder blades, this pleat set distribute the work of conforming the shirt shape and has a more aesthetic appeal. The last back style, no pleat at all, is found on custom shirts. As that the shirt was made to the wearer’s measurements, usually complemented with a split yoke, there is no need for a pleat at all.
Monograms on Shirts
Monograms originated as a form of shirt identification when large amounts of clothing were washed by those not intimately familiar with the wearers (Imagine trying to sort the clothing for a family with 5 similar sized boys).
Eventually they became more of a status symbol, with Hollywood stars such as Fred Astaire wearing his on the forearm of his shirt to display its pedigree. Today, many men enjoy using a subtle color or placing it in a hard to notice location, reserving it as a secret for only the observant to find.
A bit of advice for beginners – if building your dress shirt collection seek versatility in your clothing. To maximize value and eliminate confusion, you want to be able to wear any dress shirt with any suit you own.
Avoid extremes, and slowly build your range by experimenting with patterns, colors, and styles that compliment your features. Once you have this down, you can with confidence move into complex world of multi-color patterns and eccentric style.
This article was meant as only an introduction, and by no means should these guidelines be interpreted as infallible rules. The joy of men’s clothing is learning the rules, discovering your individual style, and then breaking the rules where you see fit.
It’s possible to get your inseam measurement using a pair of pants you own that fit you well. Fold the pants in half vertically and lay them on a flat surface. Place the end of the tape on the crotch seam and stretch it to the bottom of the hem. Make sure the pants you use to measure closely matches your selected suit fit. For example, if you are looking for a slimmer fit suit be sure you use slimmer fitting pants when measuring. For body measurement, stand upright while your partner measures from the crotch seam to where you would like the hem to fall. To find the most accurate inseam measurement, wear the shoes you intend to pair with the pants. We recommend that the pants skim the forefoot (or top) of your shoe, but feel free to adjust the length if you prefer a shorter or longer hem.
What Is A Notch Lapel?
The notched lapel (“step collar” in England) is the standard lapel style for business suits and other conservative jackets. Its ubiquity makes it play well with any face shape and body type, though it’s particularly sympathetic to Oval, Oblong, and Square face shapes.
Notch Lapel Vs Shawl Lapel
Lapel styles are determined by how the gorge is treated. The gorge refers to the point at which the jacket’s collar and lapel meet.
Notch lapels have an open gorge, but shawl lapels (or, more accurately, shawl collars) don’t have a gorge at all. The collar and lapel are all one piece, which is why this is often referred to as a shawl collar. Below, you can see the difference between the two lapel styles:
Notch Lapel Vs Peak Lapel
A notch lapel has a 90-degree open space at the gorge. A peaked lapel has much less space (if any), and the lapel juts outward and upward toward the shoulder, extending past the collar itself. See below for a visual representation of the differences:
What Is A Shawl Lapel?
Shawl lapels (also known as shawl collars) are totally rounded, gorge-less collars wherein the lapel and collar are actually made of one piece. Only found on black tie attire (with a particular commonness on smoking jacket), the shawl collar can be worn with either single or double-breasted jackets.
Shawl collars are best suited for men who have angular face shapes, such as Square, Triangle, and Diamond. They also tend to work well on Thin and Tall & Thin men, as the roundness of the lapel softens the harsher angles of these faces and body types.
Shawl Lapel Vs Peak Lapel
What Is A Peak Lapel?
Also known as a “point lapel” in England, peak lapels are the dressiest lapel style.
Characterized by a closed gorge and a lapel that points upwards towards the shoulder, they’re standard on double-breasted suits, common on tuxedo jackets, and can make a single-breasted suit look more rakish than it would with a simple notched lapel.
As its defined by angularity, the peak lapel works best on men with rounder facial and body features. Round, Oval, and Heart shaped faces all share some softness that gets tempered by the peaked lapel’s angles, and Short and Heavyset men benefit from the height and slimness the peak lapel offers.
Peak Lapel Vs Peak Wide Lapel
Super narrow lapels have been in style for years, but we’re beginning to see a swinging of the pendulum in that regard. Many retailers -especially in the made-to-measure sphere- have begun to pick up on the fact that a skinny lapel doesn’t work for everyone. In fact, it works for relatively few, but that’s a different discussion for a different time.
As such, lots of retailers such as Indochino have begun offering a “wide peak lapel” in addition to their regular lapel offerings. The catch is that every retailer will have a different viewpoint as to what “wide” means, and it’s always going to be relative to what a regular peaked lapel looks like for them.
Let your lapel width decision be determined by your body type. If you’re a small-framed man, go with a narrow peak lapel. If you’re a larger guy, a wider one will sync better with your frame.
The Different Types of Fabric
First, “fabric” is a material made by entwining fibers together. Generally, a fabric is named after the fiber user to manufacture it; some fabrics will even use a blend of different fibers. The fabric is then named depending on the fiber(s) used, its pattern and texture and the production process implemented. Some fabrics also consider where the fibers originated from.
Based off this, there are actually two sets of categories that first separate the types of fabric: the fibers used (natural vs. synthetic) and the production processes (woven vs. knitted).
Natural vs. Synthetic
The first differing detail with fabrics is dependent on what type of fiber is used. There are two types: natural and synthetic.
Natural fibers are obtained from plants and animals. For example, cotton comes from plants while silk comes from silkworms.
Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are made entirely synthetic matter created by man.
Woven vs. Knitted
The second differing detail is the production process used. Again, there are two types: woven and knitted.
Woven fabrics are made up of two pieces of yarn that interweave horizontally and vertically on a loom. Since the yarn runs at a 45-degree angle, the fabric doesn’t stretch and is usually tauter and sturdier than knit fabrics. The fabric consists of a weft (when the yarn goes across the width of the fabric) and a warp (when the yarn goes down the length of the loom).
There are three types of woven fabric: plain weave, satin weave and twill weave. Examples of popular woven fabrics are chiffon, crepe, denim, linen, satin and silk.
For knit fabric, think of a hand-knit scar; the yarn is formed into an interconnecting loop design, which allows it to stretch significantly. Knit fabrics are known for being elastic and keeping shape.
There are two types of knit fabric: warp-knitted and weft-knitted. Examples of popular knit fabrics are lace, lycra and mesh.
Now, let’s take a look at the 12 different types of fabric.
Chiffon is a sheer, lightweight, plain-woven fabric made from twisted yarn that gives it a slightly rough feel. The yarn is usually made of silk, nylon, polyester or rayon.
Chiffon can be easily dyed and is usually seen in scarves, blouses and dresses, including wedding gowns and prom dresses, due to its light, flowing material.
Known as the most popular material in the world, cotton is a light, soft natural fabric. The fluffy fiber is extracted from the seeds of the cotton plant in a process called ginning. The fiber is then spun into cloth, where it can be woven or knit.
This fabric is praised for its comfortableness, versatility and durability. It is hypoallergenic and breathes well, though it doesn’t dry quickly. Cotton can be found in virtually any type of clothing: shirts, dresses, underwear. However, it can wrinkle and shrink.
Cotton yields many types of additional fabrics, including chino, chintz, gingham and muslin.
Crepe is a lightweight, twisted plain-woven fabric with a rough, bumpy surface that doesn’t wrinkle. It is often made from cotton, silk, wool or synthetic fibers, making it a versatile fabric. Due to this, crepe is usually called after its fiber; for example, crepe silk or crepe chiffon.
Crepe is often used in suit and dressmaking since it’s soft, comfortable and easy to work with. For example, georgette is a type of crepe fabric often used in designer clothes. Crepe is also used in blouses, pants, scarves, shirts and skirts.
Another type of fabric is denim. Denim is a woven cotton twill fabric made from entwined cotton wrap yarn and white cotton stuffing yarn. It is often known for its vivid texture, sturdiness, durability and comfortableness.
Denim is mostly dyed with indigo to create blue jeans, but it is also used for jackets and dresses.
Lace is an elegant, delicate fabric made from looped, twisted or knitted yarn or thread. It was originally made from silk and linen, but lace is now made with cotton thread, wool or synthetic fibers. There are two main elements to lace: the design and the ground fabric, which holds the pattern together.
Lace is considered a luxury textile, as it takes time and expertise to create the open-weave design and web-like pattern. The soft, transparent fabric is often used to accent or embellish clothing, especially with bridal gowns and veils, though it can be found in shirts and nightgowns.
Leather is a unique type of fabric in that it is made from animal hides or skins, including cows, crocodiles, pigs and lamb. Depending on the animal used, leather will require different treatment techniques. Leather is known for being durable, wrinkle-resistant and stylish.
Suede is a type of leather (usually made from lamb) that has the “flesh side” turned outward and brushed to create a soft, velvety surface. Leather and suede are often found in jackets, shoes and belts since the material keeps the body warm in cold weather.
The next fabric is linen, which is one of the oldest materials known to humankind. Made from natural fibers, this strong, lightweight fabric comes from the flax plant, which is stronger than cotton. The flax strands are spun into yarn, which is then blended with other fibers.
Linen is absorbent, cool, smooth and durable. It is machine-washable, but it needs regular ironing, as it creases easily. Though it can be used in clothing, including suits, jackets, dresses, blouses and trousers, linen is mostly used in drapes, tablecloths, bedsheets, napkins and towels.
Unlike most of the fabrics on this list, satin is not made from a fiber; it is actually one of the three major textile weaves and is made when every strand is well-knitted. Satin was originally made from silk and is now made from polyester, wool and cotton. This luxurious fabric is glossy, elegant and slippery on one side and matte on the other.
Noted for its sleek, smooth surface and lightweight, satin is often used in evening and wedding gowns, lingerie, corsets, blouses, skirts, coats, outerwear and shoes. It can also be used as a backing to other fabrics.
Known as the world’s most luxurious natural fabric, silk is another soft, elegant fabric choice with a smooth touch and shimmering look. Silk comes from the silkworm’s cocoon, which are found in China, South Asia and Europe.
It is the most hypoallergenic, durable, strongest natural fabric, though it is difficult to clean and delicate to handle; many fabric weaves tighten or pucker when washed, so it’s best to hand wash or dry clean silk. Like lace, satin is expensive due to the time-consuming, delicate process or turning the silk thread into yarn.
Silk is mostly used in wedding and evening gowns, shirts, suits, skirts, lingerie, ties and scarves. The two most popular types are Shantung and Kashmir silk.
Unlike the other fabrics listed here, synthetics actually cover several fabric types: nylon, polyester and spandex. Synthetics don’t shrink, unlike delicate fabrics, and are usually resistant to water-based stains.
Nylon is a completely synthetic fiber made up of polymers. It is known for its strength, flexibility and resilience. Nylon is also long-lasting and handles wear and tear, which is why it is often seen ins outerwear, including jackets and parkas.
Polyester is a man-made synthetic fiber and fabric created from petrochemicals. Though it is strong, durable and wrinkle and stain-resistant, polyester is not breathable and doesn’t absorb liquids well. Instead, it is designed to move moisture away from the body. Most T-shirts, trousers, skirts and sportswear are made from polyester.
Arguably the most popular synthetic material is spandex, which is made from polyurethane. Also known as Lycra or elastane, spandex is known for its lightweight, elasticity and strength after being blended with several fiber types. This comfortable, form-fitting material is often used in jeans, hosiery, dresses, sportswear and swimwear.
Another different type of fabric is the soft, luxurious velvet, which has mostly been associated with royalty due to its rich, opulent finishing and complex production process. This heavy, shiny woven warp pile fabric has a smooth pile effect on one side. The textile’s quality is determined by the pile tuft’s density and the way they are anchored to the base fabric.
Velvet can be made from cotton, linen, cool, silk, nylon or polyester, making it a versatile material that is either inelastic or stretchy. It is often used in blouses, shirts, coats, skirts, evening wear and outerwear.
Our last different type of fabric is wool. This natural fiber comes from sheep, goat, llama or alpaca fleece. It can be knitted or woven.
Wool is often noted for being hairy and itchy, though it keeps the body warm and is durable and long-lasting. It is also wrinkle-free and resistant to dust and wear and tear. This fabric can be a bit expensive, as it needs to be hand-washed or dry-cleaned. Wool is mostly used in sweaters, socks and gloves.
Types of wool include tweed, Cheviot fabric, cashmere and Merino wool; Cheviot fabric is made from Cheviot sheep, cashmere is made from cashmere and pashmina goats and Merino wool is made from Merino sheep.
Types of Leather: All Qualities, Grades, Finishes, & Cuts
By: Author Dan Concord
There are so many incredible types of leather available. Each has it’s own unique qualities that will benefit different project types or working styles.
The link below will take you to a very informative website about different types of leather we should all be familiar with:
Blazers are one of the essential items that serve as a solid basis for every man’s wardrobe. Blazers for men, typically a Navy Blue garment with brass buttons, have also changed throughout time.
The truth that it is currently offered in a variety of colors and materials has a significant impact on their evolution. Men’s Leather Blazers are a wardrobe need for every man because leather is a material that is widely used.
Trench coats served as shielding outerwear throughout the war and were created exclusively for Army Officers. They were worn throughout the war, particularly when moving into trenches, in rainy and harsh weather.
Men’s trench-coats have developed from a strictly practical piece of outerwear to include leather trench-coats, which are distinguished by their distinctive silhouette, frequently a belted, knee-length outerwear garment made of a heavy-duty, water-proof material that is also insulted.
It has additional intricacy and depth thanks to the Raglan sleeve and flaps, which are currently seen as a status symbol by many.
TYPES OF SUITS FOR MEN: DIFFERENT STYLES EVERY MAN SHOULD OWN 2023
There are few guys who don’t aspire to one day own a walk-in wardrobe filled with all the different types of suits, but we’re often in the dark as to how to get there. For the remainder, suits are a necessary evil: an insurance policy for professional and social occasions that you want to spend the bare minimum on.
Whichever camp you fall into, allow us to illuminate you. When it comes to choosing the suits every man should own, you need to consider several factors: suit fit, lapels, buttons, vents, men’s suspenders, pants, and pockets. If it sounds like we just read off a grocery list full of things you’ve never heard of, fear not. This is your ultimate guide to all the types of suits for men.
The tailoring equivalent of the little black dress, if you buy just one type of suit, make it a slim fit suit in plain navy with two buttons with a notch lapel. You won’t get more use out of anything else. Weddings, job interviews, err, court appearances, it’s got you covered. Especially if you choose a mid-weight fabric – around 11-12oz – so that you can wear it all year round.
Any body type can confidently wear the slim fit suit. There’s just enough definition to make you look great, without being a skinny fit that highlights all your bumps and lumps (and not just your pecs). If you walk away from this article with just one takeaway, it’s that you need to add a slim fit suit to your wardrobe ASAP. Shop confidently online using this guide.
It’s all in the name. A classic fit suit is just that – a type of suit for men that is classic, timeless, which never out of style but is not terribly trendy, either. As a general rule, black skews formal, while light grey is more casual and summery. Navy blue will give you the most scope for day-in, day-out, year-round wear.
Ideally, you want to choose a shade – and fabric – with mileage. Until the foundations of your suit wardrobe are in place, avoid patterns like a plague of ravenous cashmere-chomping moths. Nobody will notice that you wore the same navy or grey suit for two or three days out of the week. Whereas nobody will miss you repeating a Prince of Wales check.
Ahh, the modern fit suit. It’s in between slim and classic in terms of fit, the sartorial equivalent of Oreo creme. It’s a great type of suit to buy as a starter if you’re not ready for the full-on slim fit, but still want to look sharp and refined.
Don’t be swayed by high ‘Super’ numbers – a measure of the material’s fineness. ‘Super’ sounds good, but they’ll also wrinkle more, making them unsuitable for daily use. ‘Fine’ also means ‘delicate’. So if this is your first – or only – suit, then you’re likely to blow through it after a couple of months of continuous wear. When buying this suit, stick instead to around the 100 mark for a sound mix of affordability and durability.
When shopping for must have suits, it’s wise to pay attention to construction. Slightly relaxed-cut, unstructured blazers not only remove the sweat-inducing insulation of padding and linings, they also speak more to the Riviera spirit of summer, as do earth and pastel tones, which never fail to look good next to tanned skin.
The trick to staying cool when the weather’s not isn’t just in choosing the right type of suit, but the right textiles. Tightly woven fabrics such as twill and artificial fibers may be less prone to creasing, but they restrict the amount of air that can circulate through the garment, making ultra-lightweight open-weave linen, seersucker or hopsack a far better choice.
Where collar meets lapel, there is a visible indentation or notch, hence the name ‘notch lapel’ for this suit style. This suit design for men leans on the formal side, but it’s a pretty safe bet for any occasion. A notch lapel is traditionally found on single-breasted suit jackets, and it is one of the most common types of lapels.
Black tie invitations may be few and far between — as infrequent as one a year, even — but they will come, with increasing regularity as you get older. And when they do come, they are invariably for occasions when you want to look and feel at your top: a swanky work party, a wedding, a long-overdue Oscar nomination for Best Actor.
In these rare, but enticing instances, go for a shawl lapel suit. They’re exclusively found on the most formal of formal wear.
The peak lapel is just a half-step below the shawl lapel in terms of fanciness, but not by much. You’ll notice these smart-looking types of suit at elegant events like black-tie weddings.
Plus, you could don ‘black tie creative’ dinner suits for parties even when the invitation doesn’t call for it. If the jacket is cut slim and a tad short, you could even wear it with jeans and a T-shirt on a night out.
The single-breasted suit is by far one of the essential suits for every man to own. More sleek and modern than its counterpart, the single-breasted suit is characterized by only one row of buttons at the front, rather than two, or even three, if we want to harken back to the mid-1930’s. We like not churning our own butter, for now.
Single-breasted suits come with one, two, or three buttons down the front seam in one clean line, and are typically, but not always, accompanied by a notch lapel.
Some style guides might recommend a summer-ready suit in lightweight khaki cotton. Instead, now is the time to make a case for a muted, double-breasted type of suit as your dark horse: specifically, an almost-black grey, or navy that’s close to midnight blue, maybe even in a fabric with a bit of a sheen, like a mohair, and with peak lapels.
The reason? A dark double-breasted suit is versatile enough to enter your everyday rotation. But with the shape, sheen and sharp lapels, it’s also got a bit of swagger about it for those times you need to wear a suit but don’t want to look like you came straight from the office – e.g. cocktail attire invitations and weddings. Just make sure the cut is trim and not too long in the jacket.
The suit’s vent is the small slit at the back of the suit jacket. Functionally, a suit’s vent is there to make your suit feel less restrictive when you’re sitting or moving around. If you’re trying on a new suit and notice the vent is pulling open when you’re standing still, that means the suit is likely too tight, a common suit fit mistake among new suitors. A single vent falls in the center of the back of your suit jacket.
Where the single-vented suit’s slit falls in the center of the jacket’s back, the double-vented suit’s slits are found on either side of the back of the suit jacket. Suits with vents on the sides are more in vogue nowadays, and more commonly found on all types of suit jackets.
No-vent suits are popular in Italy, and thus, one can assume they’re extremely classy. Some tuxedo jackets can be found without a vent (or two). Beware, though, as these jackets typically fit more constrictive and uncomfortable, so not as ideal for everyday wear. If you’re allergic to ironing, steer clear of this men’s suit style.
The most popular among modern suit pants, flat front pants don’t feature any pleating or stitching at the front of the pants. These pants are less forgiving and more revealing than their pleated counterparts. Note: creasing and pleating are different. Keeping your suit pants pressed is a good th
Pleated suit pants give off a vintage feeling, which is a trend celebrities like Harry Styles have been exuding with so much confidence lately, we’re inclined to try it, too. Characterized by the pleated folds at the waistband, they’re more comfortable to wear and more forgiving for all body shapes if you’re carrying a bit of a gut.
Details like patch pockets and contrast buttons enable you to wear a jacket and trousers as suit separates, although they’ll also make the suit slightly more smart-casual. A textured or patterned fabric, like a hopsack, birdseye or even a light flannel, help in this regard, too.
Patch pockets do have a way of dressing down a suited outfit, so they’re better for more casual weddings, a day at the derby, or a laid-back weekend event. They’re easy to wear without a tie, too.
The flap pocket is more versatile than the patch pocket, because it can be dressed up and down. Perhaps the most common suit jacket style, this can be transitioned from the board room to the boardwalk for date night. Just don’t take it under the boardwalk, or it’ll get wrinkled.
A jetted pocket gives a suit jacket a more formal feel, and it’s the most common type of suit you’ll see at black tie events. This type of pocket is cut into the jacket’s lining, and the pocket that hangs on the inside, versus the patch pocket, which is visible from the outside.
WHAT ARE THE MAIN DIFFERENT TYPES OF SUITS?
The three main different kinds of suits are the modern fit suit, the classic fit suit, and the slim fit suit. Other details you should look for when choosing a suit are things like pockets, buttons, vents, different pant styles and lapels.
WHAT IS THE BEST SUIT FOR A WEDDING?
What to wear to a wedding reception varies tremendously depending on the type of wedding and expected level of formality. If the dress code is black tie, go for a shawl collar suit or tuxedo in black. For less formal occasions, a navy blue suit or dark grey suit would be preferred. Darker colors tend to lend themselves to more fancy events.
WHAT IS THE BEST SUIT FOR A FUNERAL?
WHAT IS A 5-PIECE SUIT?
Reserved for the times when you want to look like a million bucks, a 5-piece suit refers to a suit that has all the elements. This includes a matching suit jacket, trousers, waistcoat or vest, bowtie or tie and a dress shirt.
when to wear cufflinks
Wearing cufflinks has seeped out of formal dress codes and has effortlessly and most elegantly made its way into corporate attire. Cufflinks make a significant statement of sophistication because they’re a small accessory that not many men have the time or attention to detail to think about. Knowing when to wear cufflinks, and the best places to wear cufflinks, will be vital to pulling them off properly.
If you’re spotted wearing cufflinks in a corporate setting, you will instantly be recognised as taking your job seriously and they will significantly add to your level of professionalism. This will give a stamp of confidence to all the work you do and will help you look the part of a white collar elite.
Formal attire is a no brainer for wearing cufflinks. In fact, they’re a must if you want to live up to true formal expectations. Even if your suit is adorned with an abundance of other accessories, such as a lapel pin and pocket square, cufflinks are still a must because they’re the only decorative item to adorn the sleeves of your suit.
If you’re wearing a suit jacket, your cufflinks for the most part will be covered. This doesn’t make wearing them redundant though. They will peep through at various stages, particularly when you raise or extend your arms. These are the moments that will really pay testament to your attention to detail. If you’re sitting in a work meeting and you happen to rest your elbow on the table, your cufflinks will immediately clue your colleagues in to how sophisticated your sense of taste really is.
If you’re not wearing a suit jacket, a pair of cufflinks will become even more imperative and appreciated. Without a suit jacket, you will be relying on your small accessories to give you that hint of finesse, otherwise, your outfit will look unfinished and altogether. It doesn’t matter whether you’re at a bar with friends or you’re taking your jacket off for a breather at formal events, you’ll need your pair of cufflinks to pick up the slack in the absence of a jacket.
Essentially, if you’re working a professional career or you’re trying to spruce up your evening assemblage, a pair of cufflinks are probably the best way to get you over the line in terms of sophistication. The rules of wearing cufflinks these days aren’t so rigid, so they will basically fly in any situation you see fit.
WHY ARE SOCKS IMPORTANT? AND BENEFITS OF WEARING SOCKS?
October 20, 2020
The first line of protection for your feet is a sock. Socks do much more than prevent your shoes from rubbing and blisters from forming on your feet. They provide an ideal environment by aiding in temperature and moisture control. Those suffering from neuropathy should always wear white socks to help detect open sores on their feet and ankles.
The first defense against blisters is the correct fitting of socks and shoes. Blisters are created from areas of friction and are the result of your skin layers being pulled apart. Adding a single layer of fabric, such as a sock, will significantly reduce the friction feeling in your skin. Standard cotton socks have been doing this for years. Nowadays, however, clothing developments put padding in socks to improve cushioning in high impact areas. Double layering of fabric within the sock will also help minimize friction areas. While both padded and double-layer socks are commonly reserved for sport-specific sports, they can also be worn every day.
The average foot loses approximately a cup of moisture per day. Despite the number of showers one may take per day, perspiration contains significant bacteria. Inside your shoes is a warm, moist environment, perfect for any bacteria to breed. Wearing socks made of natural fibers may be helpful in minimizing perspiration and breeding of bacteria, which may lead to infection. Your socks should be changed daily under normal circumstances, after sport, or twice daily if excessive sweating or infection occurs.
WHAT COULD HAPPEN IF YOU WEAR SHOES WITHOUT SOCKS?
Not wearing socks can cause so many complications, some described below :
This is always the most noticeable symptom when you don’t wear socks with your shoes. Because socks help absorb sweat from your feet when they’re enclosed in shoes. Without the socks, feet sweat has nowhere to go, and the first noticeable symptom is the smell.
Socks also protect the skin of your feet from rubbing on the soles of your shoes. When your feet continuously rub against the inside of your shoes, you can get blisters
Athlete’s foot is another type of fungus that can grow on your feet, and it’s contact contagious. This means that if you try on shoes at a store without socks as protection, you can get infected!
Despite being called worms, ringworms aren’t actual worms. They’re a type of fungus that grows on your skin. When you don’t wear socks, you’re at risk of getting ringworms growing on your feet. This could be very dangerous as the fungus can spread up your leg.
It will ruin your shoes
The shoes you buying aren’t cheap! They can be really expensive. When you don’t wear socks with your shoes, you bring whatever dirt that gets stuck to the bottom of your feet into your shoe. The shoes of the non-sock wearer will be black and dirty on the sole.
For more information: https://www.socksnsocks.com/blogs/news/why-are-socks-important-and-benefits-of-wearing-socks
Why Do Men Wear Cologne? (10 Reasons)
1. They Didn’t Shower
2. They’re Covering The Smell Of After Shave
3. They Feel More Masculine
4. They Want To Be Like The Cologne’s Branding
5. They Work In A Smelly Environment
6. They Want To Dress Up Or Appear Formal
7. They’re Looking To Gain Attention
8. To Set Themselves Apart
9. They Want To Impress Someone
10. They Like The Scent
Cologne is a powerful tool that some men might use to create a certain impression about themselves.
To read more, check out the website: https://www.thecoldwire.com/why-do-men-wear-cologne/.
7 Reasons Why Men Should Be Wearing Bracelets in 2023
- A display of wealth and power: Men have worn bracelets for centuries in a bid to show off their status and power. From prehistoric men that wore bracelets to ward off evil spirits, to warriors and kings who wore bracelets to signify their position in society, bracelets have evolved greatly over the centuries. Once considered a symbol of good luck and power, today bracelets have become an irreplaceable modern male accessory. So whether you’re someone who likes beaded bracelets like this Green Tiger Eye bracelet or someone who prefers metal pieces like this Cuban bracelet in gold, it’s time to add a touch of lux to your everyday looks.
2. Keep your watch in good company: It’s true, the first thing people notice about men is their watch, more often than not. So there’s really no point in investing in an iced out Rollie if you’re going to leave the rest of your wrist bare. A silver bracelet like this CubanSlim for instance, will complement your watch perfectly and not take away from it.
Rule of thumb: If the strap of your watch is silver or platinum, choose a silver or stainless steel bracelet like this Curb Style Ice to go along with it, and if your watch is gold, then pair it with a gold bracelet like this gold 10MM bracelet.
3. A great conversation starter: It’s no secret that wearing jewellery and bracelets in particular is a great way to start a conversation with someone you don’t know. If you bought your bracelet at a flea market on your last holiday for example, it’s a great way to share stories of that experience in a way that seems authentic and fun.
On the flip side, if the bracelet you’re wearing belonged to a family member, you can seamlessly weave in stories of your family into the conversation, making it evident that you are someone who is sentimental and values family. Because more often than not, if it’s a jazzy bracelet with personality, someone is definitely going to ask you where you got it from.
4. Reflects your personality: Jewellery and bracelets in particular can say a lot about a person, a lot more than just clothes can. If you’re someone who is well acquainted with wearing bracelets already, then you already know that different bracelets can say different things about your personality – sense of style, likes and dislikes and even your taste in music. For instance if you’re someone who likes to spend their time at music festivals and lying low on the beach, then you might choose a beaded bracelet like this Brown Tiger Eye bracelet. And if you’re someone who likes the finer things in life and spending your weekends popping bottles at Mayfair clubs, then you might choose a metal bracelet like this gold 12MM bracelet.
5. Can elevate any look: Tired of staring at your wardrobe in the hope of some show-stopping pieces popping out? Let your clothes take a backseat and allow your jewellery to do the talking. Invest in an eclectic collection of bracelets that can elevate even the most mundane, dare we say it, boring looks. In order to make sure your bracelets always steal the show – make sure you own at least one bracelet for every mood. A turquoise beaded bracelet like this one for those gloomy days when you can’t get yourself out of bed and need something to cheer you up. A skull beaded bracelet like this one, for nights out with the boys and a metal chain bracelet like this one for the days where you might have an impromptu date / meeting and need to quickly add some drip to your look.
6. Shows that you’re trendy and fashionable: While earrings and necklaces may be a bit overwhelming for someone who isn’t familiar with male jewellery, a bracelet can act as the perfect getaway piece to prove that you’re someone who cares about fashion and style. We’re pretty sure that all your favourite style icons have worn a bracelet at least once in their life, heck who are we kidding, all the fit blokes wear one everyday. So if you’re ready to hop on the trend, but still a bit weary, kick off your bracelet journey with a beaded bracelet like this skull bracelet in black that can spruce up any look. Trust us, once you put it on, your wrist will feel naked without it. You can thank us later.
7. They carry (secret) sexual superpowers: Has anyone ever told you that women (and men) dig men in jewellery? Well it’s true and especially true for men in bracelets. Giving off the vibe that you’re someone who is slightly creative, maybe a bit rebellious, likes taking risks but at the same time is well groomed and cares about their appearance, being able to pull off a casual look paired with a sexy looking bracelet… Well, let’s just say you’ll get anything you set your heart (or eyes) on!
TO MAKE SOME ADJUSTMENTS FOR A PERFECT FIT? WE HAVE YOU COVERED FOR A FULL YEAR!
GO TO ANY LOCAL TAILOR, EMAIL US A COPY OF THE RECEIPT AND WE WILL ISSUEWEAR A SUIT AND VEST WITH STYLE: TOP TIPS FOR MEN
Wearing a suit vest can be an easy way for a man to add an exemplary vibe to his existing wardrobe. They are also the critical third piece of a three-piece suit, with the other two being (of course) the jacket and pants. Vests add a formal touch to any function, and they can be an excellent way to expand your existing suit wardrobe. Today the Oliver Wicks team will walk you through all-things-vest-related, so you can feel sophisticated and confident wearing a vest with style.
WEAR A SUIT AND VEST WITH STYLE: TOP TIPS FOR MEN
As we mentioned above, a vest is the third piece of a man’s three-piece suit. Your country may know it as a waistcoat. However, it can be styled differently to create a more casual and alluring look by adding a sleeveless button-up garment that goes over your dress shirt but beneath your jacket.
If you’re hoping to upgrade and expand your suit wardrobe, it’s essential to know that just any old waistcoat will not do. Suppose you want to wear a suit with a vest. There are a few rules you need to follow, unlike with blazers vs. suit jackets, where you can’t just slap one together, no matter the season or event. Don’t worry. Everything you need to know about wearing your suit and vest with style is below.
Strictly speaking, there is a difference between a waistcoat and a vest. A waistcoat goes under a three-piece suit, and a vest is very similar. However, it is seen as a less structured and formal, stand-alone garment. All waistcoats are vests, but not all vests are waistcoats. For example, you wouldn’t wear a men’s suit vest with jeans, but you could wear an informal-looking vest with jeans or casual chinos that way, and you will pull off the smart casual look with ease.
However, almost no one, especially those in the U.S, uses them in this sort of way. It’s similar to “slacks” but known as the evolution of the word.’ Today, you will only hear it being called a suit vest for men – if it’s part of a three-piece suit. Whatever you decide to call it, that’s up to you. But don’t think these options are closed to women. In today’s day and age, you can vamp up your style and change it around as you please.
There are numerous vests styles available. You are bound to find one that matches your individual needs. For example, you may want to use it for puffy, sleeveless ski jackets or a specific type of men’s t-shirt. In addition, it can be worn as a garment for items with a body but no sleeves. Although there are a large number of men’s suit vests available for business casual or semi-formal, there are only a few you will find for formalwear:
- Sweater Vest: A knitted garment shaped like a vest but with no buttons. Great for attending business casual events and are worn under suits in cold climates, though these are not quite the same as a formal men’s suit vest.
- Woven Vest: More or less the same as a sweater vest, but more casual and loose-fitting.
- Tuxedo Vest: A more colorful decorative waistcoat under a dinner jacket or lounge suit, known as the “black-tie eventing” version of the suit vest.
- Tweed Vests: A specific type of casual men’s vest made from tweed. Tweed circles back to the vests men wore back in the day when hunting for dinner. Nowadays, you can think of tweed vests as the “nutty professor” look.
Garments are usually associated with these categories but do not mistake them for being the right clothing piece to wear with a suit, as garments should primarily be worn with puffer vests.
It’s worth noting that you get single and double-breasted vest suits to align the waistcoat and suit style.
It’s easy to dismiss the history of the waistcoat, but as a historical garment, its roots go deep- think all the way back to the Ottoman Empire! If you’re keen to experiment with a suit and vest, it’s important to get it right. So let’s take a look.
If you want to wear a vest and suit combo, you will need to fit it as carefully as you do your suit. Remember, much of the true essence of style lies in a well-fitted garment that moves with you. The idea is for it to feel like a second skin. We have some fitting tips, as well as extra tips for measuring your vest chest in the correct sizes.
- The armholes must be high under the arms for a smooth fit, but ensure it doesn’t look too small.
- The suit vest should be slim cut and tapered at the front. No gaps at the shoulders or flapping at the waist!
- The typical neckline is a V, but a relatively high one. When your jacket is buttoned, your vest and the V should be showing. There will be a buckle at the back to help you fit the vest.
- Your vest needs to be a careful balance of neither too long nor too short. It should stop about 1 inch below your belt loops when standing.
The vest for a suit should have high-quality buttons that blend well with the suit. There should be at least one more button than the suit jacket has, too. Be sure to eyeball the pockets and make sure they don’t look off. There are typically two at the front of the vest, which is usually used for decoration. Your waistcoat should not be worn loose and flapping around- you should always close your vest. We’re sure we don’t need to mention this, but your vest should never be creased, either!
The easiest way to wear a suit and vest is to buy a three-piece suit. This way, you will receive a tailored waistcoat that fits you and exactly matches your suit. It’s hard to go wrong with that. Typically, it’s a “self” vest or one made with the same fabric as the suit. In general, this is a smart idea, and if you don’t want to think about your suit vest too much, this option is for you!
Even when pairing a separate vest to an outfit, aim for the same fabric, or at least the exact grain, weight, and look of the fabric. This isn’t a hard-and-fast rule, but it makes dressing a whole lot easier and minimizes the chances of a faux pas.
A fashion-savvy man can alter here or there to tie their look together to suit their style. For example, unless you are attending a funeral, a black suit vest can seem all too much black on top of a black suit. So you might pair another complementary dark vest to the suit instead. However, stick to the rule that patterned jackets get patterned vests and solid jackets solid vests.
The color wheel is for more than your bathroom paint! If you dare to experiment with color, remember the pattern rule. Typically, except for color-themed weddings, we advise you to avoid contrasting the men’s vest and suit. Instead, try a complementary tone. Do be aware that your vest is meant to blend in, so wearing something eye-catching will be a daring statement. Typically, you should keep the saturation of the colors the same- deep, bold, jewel, pastel, washed out, it doesn’t matter. Just don’t stick a bright plum vest on a deep plum suit.
By far, the most common neckline on a men’s vest suit is a V-neck. This enables it to show above the jacket when buttoned but not obscure your dress shirt. It also lets you showcase a bow tie or a luxury tie to complete your look. So 90% if you are asked, let your answer be “yes, I want the V-neck.” If you are feeling experimental, there are a few other styles you can try but they do fall short next to the good old V-neck. And yes, you can wear a suit with a vest and tie, it’s never one or the other.
A three-piece suit combo is already quite a lot for the eye to take in. You don’t want to go overboard on accessories. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t wear anything. Suspenders are great if you don’t want to opt for a belt and honestly fit the “vest look” better than a belt. As always, smart but sophisticated men’s jewelry and a good watch can fit into the look. So do luxury sunglasses. You can add a pocket watch to your vest for a quirky touch.
We’ve looked a little at the color issue above, but let’s recap some standard combos. Although sometimes a little dour, a black suit with a vest is a safe, formal option. It’s a good idea to style this one slightly informally, so you don’t look like an undertaker.
A gray suit vest works well with almost any suit if you want a complementing color, so try it with navy, black, and red. On the other hand, if you’re going to smarten up a business casual look, a gray vest with a blue blazer and gray pants looks suave.
A men’s brown suit vest will go well with brighter or lighter blues, while a gray suit/black vest combo works for hotter evenings. A white suit vest can be difficult to style but is a cooling option for the eye if you’re experimenting with bold shirt colors- remember, you don’t want everything to be a statement piece! It’s easy to go too far and make your sophisticated outfit look gauche instead, so remember, less is more when in doubt. A self-colored vest is perfectly acceptable and something you can’t go wrong with.
Now you know how to fit, choose, style, and dress in a suit vest. This versatile addition to a man’s wardrobe is fun and can be immaculately styled to add sophistication to a casual look. So have fun, and don’t forget that the Oliver Wicks team is always here to help you with your vest-related questions.
For more information: https://www.oliverwicks.com/article/suit-vest
When to Wear a V-Neck Tee
V-neck t-shirts are a bit dressier than crewneck tees, so they are a great choice when you are putting together an outfit for work or for an evening out. Modest V-necks are most suitable for the office, while plunging necklines are more appropriate for date night or an evening out with friends.
V-necks are suitable for most body types, and they work well for women with small to large busts. They look great regardless of whether you have narrow or wide shoulders, too. They tend to look best on those who are petite or have curvy or athletic builds because they do a great job of balancing and elongating your silhouette. Keep in mind, though, that if you already have a rather long neck, you may want to wear a camisole underneath your V-neck for a more balanced look.
Also known as a round neck, crewneck is the classic t-shirt style that everyone is familiar with. It is simple and timeless and works for just about everyone. This style features a round neckline and no collar and was originally developed as an undergarment that would absorb sweat. The style was adopted by the U.S. Navy and was known as the “Gob Shirt.”
Today, crewnecks are worn for just about everything. They can be worn on their own or layered underneath other garments. They can even be worn over a long-sleeved t-shirt to create a casual layered look.
When to Wear a Crewneck Tee
T-shirts with crewnecks tend to draw attention to your face and shoulders. They work especially well for anyone with a long neck and wide shoulders. For women, they work best for those with small to medium busts.
Because of its simple design, the crewneck is appropriate for a wide range of situations. It can be worn on its own with a pair of jeans for a casual look or paired with a blazer and dress pants to wear to work or on an evening out.
Custom Menswear and Trends From Savillian and beyond
https://www.oliverwicks.com/article/suit-vest https://www.socksnsocks.com/blogs/news/why-are-socks-important-and-benefits-of-wearing-socks https://www.misiuacademy.com/types-of-shoe-leather-guide/. https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/mens-dress-shirts/ Custom Menswear and Trends From Savillian and beyond